Kyoto in Autumn: Temples, Maple Leaves, and Slow Mornings

Kyoto in autumn is the Japan I had been hoping to find. Flying into Osaka's Kansai International Airport (KIX), I took the Haruka express train to Kyoto Station — about 75 minutes and seamless. From there, a short bus ride dropped me near my guesthouse in the Higashiyama district, which turned out to be the perfect base for a first visit.

The whole point of coming in November is the koyo, the turning of the maple leaves. The Japanese take it as seriously as the spring cherry blossoms, and once you see the red and orange leaves framing a temple roof you understand why. The timing shifts every year, but mid to late November is usually the sweet spot. I was lucky — the leaves peaked during my stay.

My first morning I walked to Kiyomizu-dera before the crowds arrived. The wooden terrace overlooks the city, and the maples on the hillside below were glowing. From there I wandered down the Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka streets, old pedestrian lanes lined with wooden houses, tea shops, and small stores selling local pottery. The trick is to start early — by 10 a.m. the main streets are packed, but at 7:30 a.m. you can have them almost to yourself.

The next day I went to Arashiyama on the western edge of the city. The bamboo grove is the famous stop, and it is worth seeing, but the real highlight was Tenryu-ji temple just behind it. The garden there is one of the oldest landscape gardens in Japan, and with the maples reflected in the pond it was the most beautiful single view of my trip. I spent an hour just sitting on the veranda watching the light move.

Fushimi Inari was the one I almost skipped, and I'm glad I didn't. The trail of thousands of vermilion torii gates climbs up the mountainside, and walking it in the late afternoon as the light filtered through the gates was unforgettable. Go at the end of the day — most of the tour groups have left, and the lower gates are quieter.

Kyoto rewards slow mornings. I made a habit of stopping at a tea house mid-morning for matcha and a small sweet. One of my favourites was a tiny place near Gion where the owner whisked the tea in front of you and explained, in careful English, which temple to visit next. These small conversations ended up shaping my days more than any guidebook did.

For food, I had kaiseki — the traditional multi-course dinner — once, and it was an experience in itself, each dish built around the season. But the meals I remember just as much were the casual ones: a bowl of udon at a counter with only six seats, and a late-night plate of yakitori near the Pontocho alley along the river.

A few practical notes. Kyoto is walkable but spread out, and the buses can be slow in peak season — I used the subway and a rental bicycle for the flatter parts of the city. Book temple visits and popular restaurants in advance where you can; November is busy. The weather was crisp and cool, around 10–15°C during the day, so layers and a light jacket were perfect.

What I'd do differently: Stay longer. Five days felt rushed, and I never made it to the northern temples or the Philosopher's Path at a relaxed pace. Kyoto is a city that punishes a tight itinerary — the more you slow down, the more it gives you.